Experiential Trip to Manjolai

2021

Like many of you I knew Manjolai through the infamous Manjolai Massacre. But never did I try to know anything on the scenic beauty and other details of this place. After re-initiating my travel 2.0, I actively enrolled myself in few transport (TNSTC/SETC enthusiast) facebook groups. Again, saw this name surfacing on the groups with beautiful pictures. That is when I got little curious to learn about Manjolai.

Did a little more research on this place, available transport, and stay options and the research results weren’t supportive enough for easy travelling.

Manjolai, a scenic tea estate, untouched by tourist is situated above the Manimuthar in the Western Ghats in Kalakad Mundanthurai Reserve area . It is truly a remote location. It comprises of 4 estates (Manjolai, Naalumuku, Kakkachi and Oothu) where tea factory workers are residing for generations. Upper Kodayar and KuthiraiVetti are nearer places, but no one other than government officials and tourist (yes, you heard it, I’ll come to that part later) live there. When enquired about travel options, came to know that there are 2 buses plying from Tirunelveli (heard that there are bus services from Ambai and Papanasam - these two locations are not viable option for me as they are little more far than Tirunelveli from Nagercoil, hence I didn't enquire much on bus timings at these locations) at 2:00 AM and 2:00 PM everyday. People are allowed to travel in their cars, but they have to take prior permissions from (KMTR) and it would not definitely be smooth hill ride like Megamalai or hill places famous for road trips. Two wheelers are not allowed and only certain cars are allowed. You can enquire KMTR for informations.

Apart from the government operated buses, there is another option to reach Manjolai. KMTR, as part of eco tourism initiative, is operating daily safari to Manjolai two times, a day. Please find the details below.

There are two guest rooms at Kuthiraivetti. Tourist are allowed to book their stay at Kuthiraiveti through KMTR website.

I also heard that in the checkpost at Manimuthar, officials would check and ask the tourist / outsiders in the town bus to get down and travel in their travel vans.

After collecting required information’s, I wanted to do a day trip either through town bus or government van.

On a fine day, started around 11:00 Am from Nagercoil to Tirunelveli and waited to board the 2:00 PM bus to Manjolai. It came around 2:10pm, and immediately boarded and got the ticket till Manjolai. If I travel through bus (mostly busses only), I take the front single seat to get good view of the road and sceneries, but this time I sat in the middle, as I was inflicted with imposter syndrome due to the check-post checking issue. Though I am okay to get down, I had other doubts, what if they turn me down? What if they say I am the only tourist and cannot operate their van!

Take a pause and observe my overthinking brain!

Bus stopped at Manimuthar checkpost, no one from check post inspected (luck!; usually they do and ask outsiders to get down even if one have taken ticket till Manjolai) the bus. I was surprised and felt happy and enjoyed my journey thereafter. I saw 2 tourist vans parked in the checkpost. I assume that they would not have taken single person even if I request. I’ll take this trip through the safari once to know that experience.

Enroute Manjolai, I saw Manimuthar falls, and magnificient Manimuthar dam. Our bus travelled through the narrow, and dense jungle roads, and reached Manjolai in the evening.

Manjolai is a calm and beautiful hamlet. Bus halted for a while at Manjolai’s only tea stall, I had hot Manjolai tea and ulli vadai. I immersed myself in the beauty of the location while sipping the hot tea. I had two options, either to walk around the village or continue my road trip (ha ha, yes it is road trip). I felt like continuing my journey in the bus enjoying the scenic view from the front seat. I took the front seat, enjoyed the views, as the bus moved towards the other estates till the last stop Kodaiyar. The road from Manjolai towards the next villages was very narrow, with truly stunning views of the tea estates and dense jungles. I enjoyed the travel, landscape and sceneries as the bus crossed Kakkachi, Naalumukku and finally Oothu, the last habitat (with Vijay na songs being played in the background, thanks to the driver).

Since this was the last bus to Tirunelveli, people were waiting for the bus and within no minute every one got into the bus. When I was doing some prep work for this travel, I saw an IG real on the love of this bus (nicknamed as Manjolai Malaiyarasi), I happened to witness the love for this bus, when the bus stopped at Oothu. Bus and Journey are emotions to the people in remote locations. If not these buses are operated, many dreams wouldn't have become reality for the people living in the estate areas.

I didn’t interact with anyone in the onward journey, but in the return journey I got a great company from Oothu till Tirunelveli. She is Santhi amma, an estate worker in her late 40s. We had a good time talking about the life at estates, including education, work, manjolai massacre and the life of current generations. Learnt that most of the youths have pursued higher education staying at hostels in Tirunelveli and currently working in different places in various profession. Most of the current generation love Manjolai, but they don’t wanted to pursue their life at mountains. It is totally understandable. Estate people are requesting officials for commencing the operation of the 3rd bus, which was in operation and stopped in the recent past. Also, she said that buses would be very crowded around 10 th -15 th of every month, as people step out to Tirunelveli to stock the groceries for the month once their salary is credited. They have accustomed to life at mountains. Children have options to pursue education till class 10 at Manjolai, post that they have to move to cities and most of the children are doing it. While returning, we spotted a Bison. I got 3/4 kg Manjolai (210 rs) tea from the factory outlet at Manjolai. Bus halted at Kallidai, me and my bus mate had our supper and icecream at a hotel in Kalidaikurichi and bus reached Tirunelveli at 10:30 Pm. I bid bye to Santhi amma and rushed to get my return bus to Nagercoil. Reached home around 12:15PM.

Here comes the end of my experiential trip to Manjolai. Curiosity fuels the exploration (ipdi soliye suthuren, paakalam!)

We may romanticize mountains, trekking, travelling and offbeat locations, and all these might blind us from seeing the realities at these places. I just wish that the third bus resume its operation from Tirunelveli to Manjolai.

Readers, try to visit Manjolai. For details, please contact KMTR (all details are in the website).

Happy exploring,.

Saranya